Recommended Usage Rate: 2% - 5% used in the cooling phase of formulation.Ingredient Function: Humectant/thickener/conditioning agent/antistatic agent.Excellent for use as a cationic conditioning agent to create moisturizing hair conditioners, thickeners, detanglers, anti-static and other hair care treatments, especially leave-in conditioners and hair masks, due to the extreme humectant (moisture booster and binder) properties provided. One bit of valuable information the New Directions Aromatics website provides is the Absorption rates of various oils. And am thinking of doing my own with melt and pour soap. Thank you! I dont work with dangerous or toxic ingredients! If you would like to make substitutions for the soft oils in this recipe, to customize it for your own needs or other special purposes, here is information on a wide variety of oils. The local store I use has stearic acid but not cetyl alcohol , Ill have to do one with stearic acid in the future but you could, too . Thanks so much for this Marie! It should just be cetyl alcohol. Its lonely not having all the ingredients the cool kids are using. Can Cetyl Alcohol be used to thicken Hair Oils? Please help ASAP my product are going bad. Please look up any ingredients you have questions about in the. 100g Mango Butter; 37.5g Cocoa Butter; 12.5g Cetyl Alcohol; Cool Down 1. Start with the emulsifying wax Olivem1000. Youll have to do those experiments yourselfits already snowing here, so I cant offer much help! Add the stearic acid. Or you could choose still fancier oils like perilla oil, rosehip seed oil, black cumin seed oil, and tamanu oil, which are available from online suppliers such as Brambleberry, Lotioncrafter, and New Directions Aromatics. 0 - 5%. Someday I will have that kind of money! When considering ratios, do we take all these other oil phase liquids into consideration? Will it acumulate on your skin? Cetearyl alcohol is most commonly made from vegetable oils, usually coconut, palm, corn or soy. 130% (lower amounts are typically for emulsions, higher amounts are typically for anhydrous products). shea is going to give you a rich, thick butter, that is quite greasy. My current recipes is 5% Emulsifying Wax and 3% Beeswax, and Ive used that recipe for months. It offers the most wonderful slip and finish, even in high concentrationsits the complete opposite of wax in that regard, Its quite a powerful thickener, though definitely not as strong as the waxes; Im ok with that as its still nice in high concentrations, so I can use lots of it and get the same level of thickening/hardening that Id get from wax without the awful texture side effects, Itll create oil-gel-ish concoctions at 1:3+. First try and Im loving the results. After holding the water phase ingredients at 165 F. for 20 minutes, put your gloves back on a spray them with IPA. I must have been tired when I sent that message to you a while ago. The most commonly used emulsifier is BTMS, which can be either BTMS-50 or BTMS-25. Ive found a soap containing palm kernel oil that works for me. Now looking at your results, I might be one step closer now to figuring out mkaing my own shampoo and conditioner! (The heating and holding is to kill germs.). Have you ever tried having both stearic acid and cetyl alcohol in an anhydrous product? Thank you for another great post! Leave both butters for some 12-24 hours in the fridge. This one is still solid, but were starting to get some give. Step 1 - Make Scrub Base. What you basically have to do is fill a spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and, after donning your polypropylene gloves, spray and wipe down all your work surfaces with the IPA and wipe with clean paper towels. Using homemade soap, which is much less harsh than commercial "detergent bars," helped somewhat. These additions changed the texture quite a bit, making it much "lighter." You will want to use your disinfected rubber scraper to scrape the sides of the pan into the middle, to help mix everything evenly. Add the cacao butter. . Once fully melted, heat for 20 . Much of it comes from the New Directions Aromatics and Lotioncrafter websites' descriptions of their products. DL-Panthenol is nice, but should not change the texture. Definitely, and maybe Try it and see! If you take a look at some of the formulas Ive shared using Olivem1000 you can start to get a second hand idea of how it performs Happy making! 4% cetyl alcohol is also a pretty decent amount. That mixture stayed a liquid for at least and hour and slowly solidify. I have made changes in this recipe over time, but none of them were in the amount of stearic acid. Cetyl alcohol is. Coconut derivatives are in nearly EVERYTHING for sensitive skin! I don't expect it to absorb instantly, though it does absorb fairly quickly without feeling greasy. It is probably a pretty humdrum recipe. So I think the rule would be that while milks may be used in bar soaps--even replacing all water with milk--they should not be used in either lotions or liquid soaps. The reason for the extra water is that this mixture won't emulsify properly without 70% water. It is customary to present lotion and body butter recipes in a format in which the various ingredients are separated into "oil phase," "water phase," and "cool-down phase." So, the very basic whipped body butter formula is this: 40-70% Butter. 4 min read. If the product is going bad, though, cetyl alcohol isnt going to fix itand if its an emulsion it is too late to add any. I added a bag of cetyl alcohol to my DIY cupboard sometime last summer, and ever since then Ive been dabbling with it; adding a little bit to this lotion or that bar, just for a bit of fun. Now you can take off your gloves and wash the jars. Just bought some finally, last week. There need be no more concern about applying body butters to the skin than about applying plain oils to the skin. Cooled it too slow, too fast, should have cooled it faster BTMS is a pretty good thickener in its own right. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. So,this is a call out to all peeps who mayve worked w/those cetyl alcohol wax beads that Danica bought? Cetyl alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol derived from coconuts, with a melting point of 49C (120F), which still doesnt sound all that exciting, frankly. Water, of course, has a neutral pH. i know i should bug the beauty brains about this & i promise i will if theres any there there. Place the cup into the water and let the ingredients melt (15-20 min) Click here to learn how! . Add the citric acid. From here on out, you stick blend the mixture every ten or fifteen minutes while it cools. Get out your two saucepans and spray those with IPA and wipe with paper towels. It contains a higher percentage of BTMS, 2. The main difference between the two is that BTMS-50 contains cetyl alcohol. For the soft oils, use about half fast-absorbing and half slow-absorbing oils. Daniel Liden. This one is definitely translucent, and has a bit of a crystallized appearance to it, which is neat. Cetyl Alcohol. Add water & oil phase ingredients into their own containers. Now spray your stick blender and utensils (spoons, knives, soup ladle, rubber scrapers) and set them on the work surface. Can you add a bit of cetyl alcohol to a salve (only waxes and oils)? Fortunately, I finally learned how to make a good body butter using really great ingredients by frequenting the soap and skin-care groups on Facebook, as well as by researching the properties of specialized oils and other ingredients on my own. Add the berry wax. Details will be found on the suppliers MSDS data sheet. I am not sure what you'll come out with if you do this. . Have fun! Happy making . Maximum Usage Level. Emollient. Is it the Cetyl Alcohol or the amount that Im using? Odd! None of the other ingredients I suggest as additions to my body butter recipe are far outside the neutral pH range. In the list at the end of this article, I have given the absorption rates of most of the oils listed. Label, date, and cap your products when cooled to room temperature. Drop the BTMS 50 and your lotion wont emulsify! And I now have some repeat customers who say the same. A DIY emulsified body butter, inspired by The Body Shop's iconic range. Recommended Usage Level. Taken for granted until that point where it gets taken away. Dont make me wait til the end of the month! Replaces the above 2 products. In one of my earlier blogs, I showed you how to make a whipped body butter from a combination of oils and butter. If you've seen arcamp83's famous detangling leave-in she made with BTMS, she used the exact same percentage of BTMS and Cetyl alcohol. You will need to weigh the water phase both before and after heating and holding, and add enough distilled water to compensate for the water lost through evaporation. Liquid Germall Plus is a good one for this. Cetyl Alcohol must never be used near the eyes, inner nose, and ears, or on any other . Reply The herbal teas would be a great addition too, but I am uneasy about making these for sale because of the preservatives issue. BTMS-50 is about 50% BTMS and (I forget the exact percentage) most of the rest of it is Cetyl Alcohol. That's one good reason to use it in a body butter, since most people seem to dislike a product that feels greasy. So, why do we use cetyl alcohol? I have a question , do we have to measure the PH level when we making a body butter? 2. Because I had access to so much great information, I was able to make a really great body butter that my daughter says is the best she's ever used. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on November 09, 2019: Some people prefer to make body butter using only oils, butters, and waxes. Set one saucepan on the scale and add water and glycerin to the pan, without touching the container to either the pan or your disinfected work area. Me either! I have the impression you could preserve them by going up to 0.5% on the Liquid Germall Plus. When you're ready to cap the jars, spray your gloves with IPA again, and use a paper towel sprayed with IPA to clean up the jar rims and threads. The slip and absorption speed are starting to be a lot more olive oil-like rather than cetyl alcohol like, meaning the mixture is starting to absorb faster with less of a silky/powdery finish. (Spray your gloves again.) Add mango butter, kokum butter and cetyl alcohol to a heat safe container and melt in a double boiler. I also have dry skin so this is very interesting to me. Further, its moisturizing properties improve stratum corneum hydration, reducing transepidermal water loss and maintaining skin elasticity and softness. Cetyl alcohol thickens and adds body to out concoctions as well as improving slip. There is probably a lot of goop on the outsides. I think the extra SL and glycerin were a good idea too. Frankincense EO- 0.5%. Reduce your butter. i know the INCI says cetyl alcohol only, but im pretty sure i had a similar problem, & this was my experience: so, the 1st lb i bought was,for sure the c.a. For the thickener , I used stearic acid. A great gift idea but please keep some for yourself! This is such detail info and I thank you sooo much for it. You might want to do this three or four times, resting your stick blender in between, so it doesn't overheat. If you are like me, this will make you a nervous wreck. It basically just thickens oils after ~1:3, which is really neat; if you need a liquid oil, just with a bit more viscosity, cetyl alcohol is the thing you want! During my down time, I am reformating my products and replace harsh Ingredients with better ones. Spray each jar and lid with IPA and wipe with paper towels. Please read the Substitutions list in the post. So I included cetyl alcohol to give the body butter the level of stability you would get with BTMS-50. Steareth-20 (or 21) This is a Polyethoxylated Alcohol, which is a fatty alcohol derived from natural oils and fats and is known by it's INCI name, Steareth-20; This is a simple and effective emulsifyer; Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth-20. Cas Number. One of Swiftcraftymonkey's blogs talks using this combination of ingredients to kind of re-create BTMS-50. According to Susan, who has worked with it as a standalone, some of the formulas Ive shared using Olivem1000, to the similar one I did on cetearyl alcohol, Green Tea Conditioning Hair & Body Butter. I can tell I applied something to my skin in that it feels softer and smoother, but there isnt a hint of tack or oiliness; just silky dry smoothness. Recommended Usage Level. Cant taste anything, no wonder there, but it seems to be something crystallized. Its a pretty groovy (and inexpensive, which is nice) ingredient . Off to choose the next scenteither Egyptian musk or Amber & Sandalwood . I love the skin feel of the two blended! Thank you. Phase C. Iscaguard PEG- 1%. Also you can google these things yourself Its always best to learn to do your own research, dont take my word on everything! Some prefer a body butters that are oil-in-water emulsions. i've used aloe vera gel, or floral "teas" in my facial creams, lotions, body-washes & shampoos instead of water tho Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on June 21, 2017: Mary, I did a quick search to try to find absorption rates for butters, but the only thing I can find at the moment is that mango butter absorbs more quickly than shea butter. If you were going to use the Cheat Sheet to put together a recipe, your recipe might look like this: It is very important to use a preservative in oil-and-water emulsions like lotions and body butters. Thanks. Lovely recipe.been long enough on my To Do List. I love it! Then there are also some very spendy additives that I have not yet experimented with, such as hyaluronic acid and squalane. Your email address will not be published. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 31, 2017: Mary, I may have mentioned this in the article, but I was told by someone very knowledgeable that the best things to combat dry skin are oils that contain gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). Now that we've covered the basics, I will now reveal my very own recipe. Stearic acid isnt a great alternative for cetyl alcoholyou can learn more about it here. CurlBlog Have you ever used it in a body butter? Solid oils are oils that are solid at room temperature. Medium-absorbing oils don't need to be balanced. BTMS-25 is 25% BTMS and 75% Cetearyl Alcohol. This recipe makes 200g of emulsified sugar scrub and should last for approximately 6 months. What would you suggest to replace Honeyquat? To make a lotion thinner, deduct 1-2% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid. OOooh, SO COOL! Thank you so much for your reply! Jeequat NDCS (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate) - cold emulsifier, natural (aka, ICE Conditioner) Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 (INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) polyquaternium 37) Cetyl alcohol offers thickening, but more than that, it also improves the slip and glide of lotions. Question: Can you use milk in your body butter recipe? Melt the oils, butters, and waxes over a double boiler (or in the microwave, if you prefer). It's worth mentioning, though, that some people think lard is a very good product in skincare since it is very similar to human sebum. If you are a math nerd, you will notice that this recipe doesn't conform very closely to the ingredient proportions shown on the Cheat Sheet. Once all the water is in there, stick blend with your disinfected stick blender. Its a strong thickener without the weight and tack of waxes. Cetearyl alcohol comes as white pellets, much like emulsifying wax and other fatty alcohols and acids, so make sure you're keeping your lids and labels straight! When I began making soap, I developed recipes with highly emollient propertiestriple-butter soaps with a high superfatwith my own kids' needs in mind. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 10, 2017: What a great collection of valuable information! In a different heat-resistant beaker, add the distilled water. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. Small white beads or pellets; it's easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax. Remove the container from the heat. Print Instructions Pin for later. One reason my recipe includes cetyl alcohol is because it is usually considered better to use BTMS-50, rather than BTMS-25, since BTMS-50 is more stable. The e-wax (or Polawax) is an emulsifier which keeps the oil and water in formulations from separating, while Cetyl Alcohol thickens your formulation. Im one of those rare people who cant enjoy all the coconut goodness. If you use BTMS-50, my guess is that you should use the amount shown in the recipe, though the body butter may come out a bit thicker. This is fascinating, and such valuable information- thanks so much! Spray your gloves again and move the pan to the stove. Its also slightly translucent. It simply will be easier to ship infused hair oils if they are thick. I use myrica fruit wax and when its in the process of cooling, it crystalizes a bit. Thank you Marie! Here's why: While your water phase ingredients are heating, some water will be lost to evaporation. Store at below 77. I use cetyl alcohol. Its quite similar than Skinchakras sample in terms of look and action + far more easy to make and customize (used squeeze bottle). And helpful! How do you think this compares with Cera Bellina wax for slip and gel? Cetyl alcohol. Others with lesser amounts are evening primrose, black currant seed, and hempseed. After making the Snowy Dawn Luminizer, I realized thats what I wanted the solid perfume to feel like upon application. Dec 30, 2010. Do you believe it can be a substitute to beeswax on a deodorant recipe? Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on April 05, 2019: I don't know what might have caused the waxy feeling. Thats a wish list or something. Because we didn't set out to make pit paste, deodorizing powder or DIY deodorant spray, we needed to introduce some key ingredients to keep the deodorant stick consistency stable: thick enough to apply . The size of your oil phase will also be a factor, but you havent listed that. Please post any observations here that youve had regarding this matter, if any..b/c im just so curious if that entire lb of c.a.s worth of lotions etc were just crap b/c they were crap, as vs. that specific variety being some waxy form of c.a.? My hair loved it and am actually able to go a full day and a half without washing my hair before it begins to look like rubbish. It melts at 50C (122F), which is slightly higher than cetyl alcohol ( 49.3C [120.7F]) and lower than stearic acid ( 69.3C [156.7F] ). I will do as you suggested. I just purchased my first bag of cetyl alcohol. Sample 5: 10% oil, 15% butter, 5% wax and 5% Montanov 202. 2. This one is also super solidno finger denting happening here, and running a finger over the surface doesnt cause any melting. It should be possible, but you will have to experiment to figure out precisely how. Gracias Marie!! Organic cocoa butter 9.0%; Organic sweet almond oil 45.0%; Phase C. Preservative 1.0%; Procedure: Heat Phase A and B separately in a water bath. You should definitely get some, cause where were using it, nothing else compares. A humectant is any of several ingredients that draw moisture to the skin. .btms-50 in one recipe and I Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate as emulsifier in . If you work carefully, you won't need to spray the containers of oil and other ingredients. Prepare a water bath: add 3cm/1" of water to a wide pan. Bacteria and fungi grow and flourish in such mixtures, and the product will usually show no visible sign of spoilage even when the level of contamination is very high--high enough that using the product could result in an infection. How Much Cetyl Alcohol To Use In Body Butter? You could use lard or tallow, but what people usually use in lotions and body butters is mango butter, cocoa butter, or shea butter. (You touched the scale before it was sprayed.) Hi Marie, I use stearic acid at 8% already, so how much should I increase it to to drop the beeswax and incorporate cetyl alcohol? Cetearyl alcohol pops up in this formulation as an emollient and thickener, paired with stearic acid. I now consider it a minor miracle that they didn't separate. Despite having alcohol in the name, cetyl alcohol is not drying or irritating to the skin as it is not that kind of alcohol. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. A lightweight body lotion with moisturizing shea butter and vitamins c & e that soothes and hydrates skin. Aww no! You could try blending cetearyl alcohol with some super-slippy lauryl laurate for a slip boost. to oil ratio-comparison..the 2nd lb i purchased was on amazon & it said C.A. Even with a preservative and careful preparation, this stuff still has a shelf life. If you'd like to make a simple product with what you have at hand, it's worth considering. Thanks so much for this post. It's good to balance slow-absorbing oils with fast-absorbing oils (about equal amounts of each).

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