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The Chronicle archive is filled with wonderful surprises, but rarely is a question so satisfyingly answered. You couldn't bull--." 18 Rue Porte au Berger, 14000, Caen RESTAURANT LULU -- 816 Folsom Street, S.F., (415) 495-5775: Pigeon egg martinis ($5.25); Herb's Country Pigeon with wild mushrooms, potatoes and bacon ($15.50). [12]:16-17. "Remember the Chinese driving school?". The youngest gawkers, Mr. Caen said, have never seen carbon paper, a vestige of the pre-computer newsroom. Over the years, she has served as writer, reviewer, editor and columnist. To use our mobile site, please enable JavaScript. I think it was the late 80s, maybe even mid-80s. Youre taking Julia Child where for lunch? I repeated what Id already said, Tu Lan, a restaurant on Sixth Street in San Francisco. French. [6] His many recurring if irregular features included "Namephreaks"people with names (aptronyms) peculiarly appropriate or inappropriate to their vocations or avocations, such as ", When it's time to sit, the mayor occupies the spot nearest the window on the banquet side, which is marked by a plaque honoring Caen. (Thrice divorced, with a son, he shares his home with a female companion.) A legend rediscovered. Brown is told the governor is on the line. You use it to make dupes, he tells them. "He would call Willie on it," says Bashford. "You don't think I'm washed up, do you?" Tahoe snow: Massive blizzard wreaks havoc on the Sierra, burying S.F. This family-friendly spot is one of the best Italian restaurants in Tempe. Herb Caen accepts his special 1996 Pulitzer Prize from George Rupp, Columbia University President. $44.00. "Most of the people looked like they were wearing uniforms from hotel school," huffs de Wildt. [4] Herbert Eugene Caen was born April 3, 1916, in Sacramento, California, although he liked to point out that his parentspool hall operator Lucien Caen and Augusta (Gross) Caen[5]had spent the summer nine months previous at the Panama Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco. Chick-fil-A to open brand-new Bay Area outpost, Horoscope for Wednesday, 3/01/23 by Christopher Renstrom, BJs Restaurant to permanently close Bay Area mall location, Construction of Brightline bullet train from SoCal to Vegas set to begin, If travel planning gives you a headache, try these apps. It is Mr. Caen, an old-time boulevardier in natty threads and fedora, who dubbed San Francisco Baghdad-by-the-Bay, which was also the title of his 1949 book (Doubleday). SCOMA'S RESTAURANT -- Pier 47, S.F., (415) 771-4383: Half-price martinis. ENRICO'S -- 504 Broadway, S.F., (415) 982- 6223: Vitamin V Stoli martinis on the rocks in a wine glass ($3.75); live music by Big Money Jazz Band, starring Mal Sharpe. But there is another sort of column that earned Mr. Caen welcome here when he arrived 55 years ago from Sacramento, a greenhorn in the big city, a Jew in a gentile town. Being a part of his inner circle had its obligations, especially in regard to contributions to the column, which Caen admitted -- in his middle years -- was No. Chronicle columnist Herb Caen wrote, "The best restaurant in San Francisco is in Oakland." According to Bergeron, he sat down with his bartender one evening in 1944 to create the world-class drink . Joeshe fakes it with Ken.'" It's no surprise that the cake would elicit such fond memories. MICHELIN French. Edgar Sierra has been chef of Cafe Bastille since 2000, and he previously cooked at Cafe Marimba, a Mexican-Californian place in The Marina district. Is this just another Bay Area tale - like the Oakland port cranes that definitely didnt inspire The Empire Strikes Back - that is too captivating to be doubted? "I would love to think Herb Caen pays for everything," said an executive of a well-known downtown restaurant who once managed another favorite night spot of Caen's. "But I know he doesn't. That would be a fine kicker. The menu of Vietnamese restaurant Tu Lan, with an undated Herb Caen item about Julia Child's visit to the establishment on Sixth Street in San Francisco. Any remaining suspense ended quickly, during a second search. Moose organized a softball team, the Lapins Sauvages, composed of famous and influential people who were regular restaurant patrons. SABELLA & LA TORRE -- Fisherman's Wharf, S.F., (415) 673-2824: Half-price martinis all day; Big Band music. 5. BAJA CANTINA -- -- 3154 Fillmore Street, S.F., (415) 882-2252: Vodka martinis all day at $1.50 with our complimentary Baja Taco Bar 4-7 p.m.; and drink specials 4-7 p.m. Two-for-one Baja Margaritas and two-for-one draft beer 4-7 p.m. BAKER STREET BISTRO -- 2953 Baker Street, S.F., (415) 931-1475: Chicken a la Mode de Caen (roasted chicken with apple) from 5:30-10:30 p.m., $10. Outside, Brown has finished his phone conversation, but now he's taking a minute to meet with Rabbi Joseph Langer, a maxi-bearded man who has come to give him a box of handmade matzos for Passover, which is to begin the next day. VANESSI'S -- 1177 California at Jones, across from Grace Cathedral, S.F., (415) 771-2422: $1 vodka martinis. . In public, Caen seemed to be filled with self-confidence and a sense of his own power. "I used to watch Herb," says Bashford, "and all the people always on the make with Herb. Furthermore, if he found out about an item a friend had known about and hadn't given to him, the friend was in trouble. The murderer, his arms bound, was hustled roughly onto the trapdoor, the noose was slammed around his neck, a black mask dropped over his unbelieving face, the trapdoor clanged open, the body shot through and stopped with a sickening crack. Pogash said there are no photos that shes aware of documenting either of Woods meals with Child; the private one or the Tu Lan lunch. "So when you get it, don't be surprised," retorts Brown. "You could never be weak.". from 3 to 5 p.m. Lunch begins, as it always began, with each of the gents throwing dice for his drink tab with Toni Staiano, the bartender at Le Central. Your Privacy Choices (Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads). TimesMachine is an exclusive benefit for home delivery and digital subscribers. Its a Chronicle tradition to appoint a pair of veteran journalists to take new employees to coffee, with a budget of $30. STARS RESTAURANTO -- 150 Redwood Alley, S.F., (415) 861-7827: Vitamin V Stoli on the rocks, free all day, limit one to a customer. Automatic grounds for getting bumped were "not being insulting enough," says Brown, "and having to go to therapy after lunch." It was a very dirty place, but I enjoyed it and had no ill effects., Peter Hartlaub is The San Francisco Chronicles pop culture critic. Reporter Carol Pogash and her husband, Jim Wood, both at work on the San Francisco Examiner. On this Wikipedia the language links are at the top of the page across from the article title. "Because my name wouldn't be in the paper and I wouldn't know if I was dead or alive," he says, his tongue sharp and his face crisscrossed with the red veins that come from too many shots of what he blithely calls vitamin V. Mr. Caen, a columnist here since 1938 and the last living Walter Winchell imitator, has no plans for retirement. Chronicle photo by Scott Sommerdorf, The dice cup used by Herb Caen to play "Boss" dice at Le Central is immortalized there in a plexiglass display case hung behind the bar. Tu Lan, to me, is America with its faults and its virtues and the added little bonus you never expect - the food is just fantastic.. But Woods family still cherishes the stories. Old versions of these columns, sort of Herb Caen's greatest hits, run in the Sunday paper, in a slight concession to the weariness of age. VIVANDE PORTA VIA -- 2125 Fillmore Street, S.F., (415) 346-4430: Caen's Carbonara lunch special -- fresh fettuccine tossed with pancetta, egg and parmigiano reggiano cheese ($11.50). "The level of my arrogance," says the mayor, "assumes that everything I say is publishable.". Works. AT LUNCH WITH: Herb Caen; Romancing San Francisco In 1,000 Words or Less, https://www.nytimes.com/1993/05/26/garden/at-lunch-with-herb-caen-romancing-san-francisco-in-1000-words-or-less.html. She said that the Tu Lan meal wasnt Woods only time spent with Child. "If you discussed an item with him, you couldn't mislead him. "You got your Christmas shopping done early," says Bashford. At the 6th Street restaurant, on a block dominated by SRO hotels, its still almost possible to stretch that into a sit-down lunch. He crowns "Namephreaks" like Buzz Minnow, a local fisherman, or Shirley Nice, a kindly schoolteacher. Did the worlds most famous chef really eat a meal on a block reputed for its open-air drug deals? Paul Child really liked the food, but in Woods article, Childs thoughts about the meal remain vague throughout. ". he asked the perky saleswoman. JACKS CANNERY BAR -- 441 Jefferson Street, S.F., (415) 931-6400: Vitamin V martinis, $1 from 5 p.m. JELLY'S, A DANCE CAFE -- 295 China Basin Way, S.F., (415) 495-3099: Vitamin V martinis, $1. Adding new drink called "Herb's Vitamin V" to permanent cocktail list. Start shopping online now with Instacart to get your favorite products on-demand. Edsel, always a fellow with a flair, added the Ford and hinted broadly that he was related to the auto family; an amused Henry Ford II made a special trip to Sam Wo to check out the rumor By the way, there is no Sam Wo at Sam Wo. MEL'S DRIVE-IN -- 2165 Lombard Street/ 3355 Geary Street, S.F., (415) 921-3031 and (415) 387-2244: Meat loaf and mashed potatoes, 80 cents all day. The conversation suddenly slows as Bashford gets serious. THE FLY TRAP RESTAURANT -- 606 Folsom Street, S.F., (415) 243-0580: Tortellini with a sauce of Roquefort cheese, pine nuts and Vitamin V vodka, $12.75, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Those were the days, Mr. Caen says, when young men like himself lived in the heart of the city, rode the streetcar to work, ate in $2 Italian restaurants and went to nightclubs. Reservations required. It's a Chronicle tradition to appoint a pair of. I can get you a good table in a restaurant -- that's about the height of my powers. "[8], In 1936, Caen began writing a radio programming column for the San Francisco Chronicle. HOUSE OF SHIELDS -- 39 New Montgomery, S.F., (415) 392-7732: Meat loaf, mashed potatoes and two Stoli martinis in a wine glass for $19.38, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. 555 North Point Street, S.F., (415) 563-1234: The Herbwich Special (chicken focaccia sandwich, fries and a martini) $9.95; half- price martinis. 14000, ( SF CHRONICLE PHOTO BY SCOTT SOMMERDORF ), One of the largest movie theaters in SF to close permanently, 'Zero visibility' conditions: All roads to Tahoe are closed, Report: Matthew McConaughey has a massive Salesforce paycheck, 'Really cool sight': Rare waterspout forms in Northern California, Avalanche slams into Tahoe apartment building amid blizzard, Plan to bring bullet train from LA to Vegas is underway, What it looks like inside Coit Towers former apartment, Grapevine closed indefinitely due to heavy snow and ice, A different horse': Bay Area will likely continue to see rain, Popular yet divisive fast food chain coming to this Bay Area town, Hundreds of thousands of workers have abandoned downtown SF, Tahoe's snowfall totals are on track to break records, Grapevine closed indefinitely due to snow and ice, authorities say, New report shows thousands of workers have left downtown San Francisco. It ran on Nov. 15, 1985. The city, in turn, anointed him Mr. San Francisco, which means he gets good tables at restaurants, invitations to the best parties, quick service on his aging Jaguar and 1,000 letters a week from . But the genre is harder to write these days, Mr. Caen says, now that San Francisco has homeless encampments, graffiti-scarred buildings, overcrowded highways and overpriced real estate, just like other, less self-congratulatory cities. The four look down the table at the reporter scribbling in her notebook. Caen, 21 Boulevard des Allis, The radio assignment lasted but a few years, replaced by the current column, a blatant imitation of Walter Winchell, then the man about town in New York. New hires at The San Francisco Chronicle often begin their careers dining at Tu Lan. .css-dni6nt path:nth-child(1),.css-dni6nt path:nth-child(2){fill:hsl(104, 38%, 42%);}.css-dni6nt path:nth-child(3),.css-dni6nt path:nth-child(4){fill:hsl(0, 0%, 0%);}.css-l7ijkl{clip:rect(1px, 1px, 1px, 1px)!important;overflow:hidden!important;position:absolute!important;white-space:nowrap!important;height:1px!important;width:1px!important;padding:0!important;border:0!important;contain:paint!important;}TheFork, a Trip advisor company, .css-1ddcsh7{font-size:0.8125rem;font-weight:400;font-family:RalewayX,arial,sans-serif;font-style:normal;line-height:1.3846153846153846;text-transform:uppercase;text-transform:uppercase;}French, 14 Rue Porte au Berger, Caen, .css-183608p{color:hsl(354, 69%, 44%);}1 starMICHELIN French, 3, avenue Henry-Chron, 14000, Kelly takes advantage of the moment to remove a broken-stemmed red carnation from the tabletop bouquet, pinch out its anthers -- "You always pluck the center out of a carnation," he explains, "They're too big otherwise" -- and place it in the buttonhole of his bespoke suit. The Best Restaurants in Caen. Herb Caen, April 2, 1958. "Accuracy was the most important thing," says Brown. Waiter (and one-time part owner) Edsel Ford Fung, who became famous for berating and insulting the customers, all with tongue in cheek, died Tuesday at age 55, and the skinny old eating place is in mourning. Caen, 18 Rue Porte au Berger, ALIOTO'S RESTAURANT -- 8 Fisherman's Wharf, S.F. Caen never mentioned the incident in his column. "[27], If I do go to heaven, I'm going to do what every San Franciscan does who goes to heaven. HARRY DENTON'S STARLIGHT ROOM -- 450 Powell Street, S.F., (415) 395-8595: Special Herb Caen martinis with Big Band music from 4:30 to 7 p.m. MARRIOTT HOTEL/FISHERMAN'S WHARF-LOBBY LOUNGE -- 1250 Columbus Street, S.F., (415) 775-7555: Half-price martinis from 4 p.m. PIER 39 -- Pier 39, S.F., (415) 705-5500: The Black Tie Jazz Orchestra plays Big Band tunes from 6.30 to 9.30 p.m. in the Pier 39 Entrance Plaza, and half-price martinis at these Pier 39 restaurants: Alcatraz Cafe & Grill, Bay View Cafe, Chic's Seafood Restaurant, Dante's, Eagle Cafe, Neptune's Palace, Old Swiss House, Pier Market, Swiss Louis, Yet Wah. Day in and day out, he writes his love letters to this once-glorious city, somewhat faded now, that rescued him from Sacramento, then a sleepy farm community, and made him famous, as much a landmark here as Coit Tower, the cable cars or the Golden Gate Bridge. And after all those years, Child remembered Tu Lan. 14000, Among the colorful personalities making periodic appearances in Caen's columns was Edsel Ford Fung, whose local reputation as "the world's rudest waiter" was due in no small part to Caen, who lamented his death in 1984: SOME WOE around Sam Wo, the skinny three-story restaurant on Washington near Grant. RITZ-CARLTON, SAN FRANCISCO -- 600 Stockton Street, S.F., (415) 296-7465: $500 donation to the UCSF Foundation for the Cancer Research Fund in Herb's memory. Sidney Poitier wore the best-tailored traditional outfit, opines Brown, but Samuel Jackson was best-dressed overall. BOULEVARD RESTAURANT -- One Mission Street, S.F., (415) 543-6084: Big Band music all day and a complimentary taster plate of meat loaf and mashed potatoes when ordering a Vitamin V martini. 228. SEAL'S COVE -- Pier 33, S.F., (415) 788-4343: Herb Burger, $5; half-price martinis, $2. . Powers received almost a hundred cards, most from the San Francisco Bay Area.[24]. The destination has another draw, and its completely free: The story of The Chronicle, Tu Lan and Julia Child. Mooky's 242 reviews Open Now French, Wine Bar $$ - $$$ Menu "A brilliant restaurant" "IMPATIENCE" 2022 2. NEW PISA -- 550 Green Street, S.F., (415) 989-2289: A special three-course meal including a Vitamin V martini, Caesar salad and meat loaf with mashed potatoes, $10. The name means something analogous to "Three Happiness," but there is only sadness there this week. Use Next and Previous buttons to navigate. . CAFFE UNION -- 1830 Union Street, S.F., (415) 673-4119: Serving Herb Caen's favorite meal, meat loaf and potatoes for dinner, $7.38, from 6 p.m. CASTAGNOLA'S RESTAURANT -- 286 Jefferson. THE NEW COCONUT GROVE -- 1415 Van Ness Avenue, S.F., (415) 776-1616: 25-cent vodka martinis from 5:30-6:30p.m. JUDY'S CAFE -- 2268 Chestnut at Scott, S.F., (415) 922-4588: Meat loaf and potatoes ($4.95). But wouldn't the red carpet welcomes disappear, the invitations stop, if he were to retire? ", Did he ever make a mistake? And even he misses the defunct nightclubs, where he used to collect his items in a little spiral notebook. Free shipping for many products! To preserve these articles as they originally appeared, The Times does not alter, edit or update them. The Cornish Pasty Co is a European style restaurant serving pasties, which are pastries with unique and savory fillings. Photo San Francisco Public Library Historical Photograph Collection "Herb Caen once noted that the Blue Fox served radicchio salad 35 years before it became trendy" When I was very young, my parents took the family to The Blue Fox restaurant in San Francisco. THE FRANCISCAN -- Pier 43 1/2, S.F., (415) 362- 7733: Herb Caen Martini Special, Tanqueray Gin Martini, Ketel One Vodka Martini, Absolut Kurant Cosmopolitan, Maker's Mark Bourbon Manhattan in a choice of two sizes: $3, $5. Here are Woods first four paragraphs: One of the editors couldnt believe it. One Mans San Francisco, Doubleday & Company Inc., Garden City, New York, 1976. ", He made fun of people's pretentions; he made fun of their hairdos. Caen continued to write, though less frequently. He coined the term beatnik in 1958[14] and popularized hippie during San Francisco's 1967 Summer of Love. One of the largest movie theaters in SF to close permanently, 'Zero visibility' conditions: All roads to Tahoe are closed, Report: Matthew McConaughey has a massive Salesforce paycheck, 'Really cool sight': Rare waterspout forms in Northern California, Avalanche slams into Tahoe apartment building amid blizzard, Plan to bring bullet train from LA to Vegas is underway, What it looks like inside Coit Towers former apartment, A different horse': Bay Area will likely continue to see rain, Grapevine closed indefinitely due to heavy snow and ice, Popular yet divisive fast food chain coming to this Bay Area town, Hundreds of thousands of workers have abandoned downtown SF, Tahoe's snowfall totals are on track to break records, If travel planning gives you a headache, try these apps. Then it's back to the office to answer the mail, with every letter, Mr. Caen said, signed by him lest it not match an earlier correspondence that hangs, yellowed, on somebody's refrigerator door. Contactless delivery and your first delivery or pickup order is free! Her husband Paul took seconds, then thirds on the salad and the fish, so I think he really liked what he had., On the way out, as Child headed to her limousine, a homeless man approached her, bowed deeply, and offered the chefs signature line: Bon Appetit!. Regulars in a temporarily fragile state of mind were doomed. TADICH GRILL -- 240 California Street, S.F., (415) 391-1849: Meatloaf a la Caen, served with mashed potatoes and a vegetable ($11.95). Still, he composes a new one from time to time. But now his readers are "more defensive than superior. One night, he came home and said, Ive blown it. Hed stood up Julia Child. Pogash wrote in an e-mail. He shows a guest a life-size cardboard cutout of Mr. Caen on the balcony, just above the door to the men's room, where a wobbly drunk might think it real. TRATTORIA CONTADINA -- 1800 Mason Street at Union Street, S.F., (415) 982- 5728: Trippa alla Caen, sauteed tripe with pancetta sweet onions and parsley in a tomato-vodka sauce, only 38 cents with any dinner. . The restaurant was opened in 1973 by local Ed Moose, a former dispatcher and reporter for the St. Louis Post-Dispatch, [3] his wife Mary Etta, and partner Sam Dietsch. Caen, .css-fl00r9{text-transform:uppercase;white-space:nowrap;font-weight:300;padding:0.25rem 0.5rem;font-size:0.8125rem;border-radius:0.25rem;color:hsl(354, 69%, 44%);background-color:hsl(354, 52%, 94%);font-weight:400;width:m;height:m;display:inline-block;}.css-su1m0p{width:1em;height:1em;fill:currentColor;vertical-align:text-bottom;font-size:16;color:hsl(354, 69%, 44%);}MICHELIN .css-j2m83z{text-transform:uppercase;white-space:nowrap;font-weight:300;padding:0.25rem 0.5rem;font-size:0.8125rem;border-radius:0.25rem;font-weight:400;width:m;height:m;display:inline-block;background-color:hsl(248, 38%, 15%);color:hsl(0, 0%, 100%);}.css-1rxdk56 path{fill:hsl(0, 0%, 100%);}PAY French, Specify a date and enjoy promotions of up to -50% in our best restaurants, 6, boulevard des Allis, Biography. . [34] Caen, .css-1qf8kli{text-transform:uppercase;white-space:nowrap;font-weight:300;padding:0.25rem 0.5rem;font-size:0.8125rem;border-radius:0.25rem;color:hsl(0, 0%, 100%);background-color:hsl(164, 25%, 21%);font-weight:400;width:m;height:m;display:inline-block;}INSIDER.css-rim4wq{margin-left:0.25rem;} Mexican, 43 Rue Saint-Sauveur, A search in The Chronicles digital archive quickly revealed that: 1. MOOSE'S -- 1652 Stockton Street, S.F., (415) 954-0744: Meat loaf and mashed potatoes, $1.50; Mini Mooseburgers, 95 cents; Skyy vodka martinis 75 cents. The city, in turn, anointed him Mr. San Francisco, which means he gets good tables at restaurants, invitations to the best parties, quick service on his aging Jaguar and 1,000 letters a week from devoted readers who say, "I hope I die before you do.". "I always speak in the past, " he proclaims, "but Matthew is the future. 'Actually no,' she answered slyly. Sometimes suspected to be a Caen alter ego, de Jim (whose letters bore no return address, and who met Caen only onceby chance) was revealed after Caen's death to be a Castro District writer who, despite several coy interviews with the press, remains publicly anonymous. FLEUR DE LYS -- 777 Sutter Street, S.F., (415) 673-7779: A five-course menu dedicated to Herb featuring a Vitamin V sorbet as intermezzo, $65. For lunch, meatloaf and potatoes ($10). TARANTINO'S -- 206 Jefferson Street-Fisherman's Wharf, S.F., (415) 775-5600: Meatloaf and mashed potatoes, $7.95; half- price martinis; Big Band music. The game is boss dice, explains Brown -- unruffled and perfectly pressed despite spending part of his morning riding a camel in connection with a Silk Road Asian Art Museum event -- not liar's dice, because everyone knows "you can't play liar's dice with a politician. He'd strike out at them. CAFFE UNION -- 1830 Union Street, S.F., (415) 673-4119: Serving Herb Caen's favorite meal, meat loaf and potatoes for dinner, $7.38, from 6 p.m. CASTAGNOLA'S RESTAURANT -- 286 Jefferson Street, S.F., (415) 776-5015: Caen Colada, 80 cents. World famous chef, cookbook author and television show host Julia Child, shares a laugh with students from her alma mater, Smith College Thursday, Oct. 11, 2001 in Northampton, Mass. The #17 pork shish kebab and imperial roll with rice noodles at Tulan restaurant in San Francisco, Calif., is seen on Friday, October 4th, 2013. in the elevator on the way up to the newsroom after finding out she was pregnant with their first child. An occasional column was given over to serious matters, such as a May1, 1960, piece on the upcoming execution of Caryl Chessman, which included Caen's recollection of witnessing a hanging as a young reporter: Suddenly the door behind the scaffold swung open and the nightmare scene was enacted in a flash. The Bay Area is catching a break from winter storms. You couldn't enhance it. LE CENTRAL RESTAURANT -- 453 Bush Street, S.F., (415) 391-2233: Herb's favorite dishes, including Stolichnaya Vitamin V martinis, roast chicken pomme frites, fresh Dungeness crabmeat salad and steak pomme frites. The editors couldnt believe it the late 80s, maybe even mid-80s that everything I say is publishable..! A temporarily fragile state of mind were doomed came home and said, Ive blown it 771-2422 $... `` Accuracy was the late 80s, maybe even mid-80s speak in the past ``. '' retorts Brown new drink called `` Herb 's Vitamin V '' to permanent cocktail list burying S.F Brown. Scott, S.F., ( 415 ) 771-2422: $ 1 vodka martinis 5:30-6:30p.m! Is one of the people always on the San Francisco Chronicle often begin their careers dining at Tu.! 771-4383: Half-price martinis all day ; Big Band music looked like were... 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